| This
article explains the different suit styles, and
other issue to consider when choosing and buying
a suit.
Style
2
Button suit
This suit is no more in vogue. It is a versatile
piece because it looks good on most body types.
Due to its low button position that comes with the
cut, the suit tends to lengthen the body. Be sure
of the shirt you use with it, cause more of the
shirt is exposed.
3
Button Suit
The three button jackets are the safest bet for
anyone not sure of what style to choose. It is also
regarded as today’s most conservative business
wear. Style-setters tend to leave at least one of
the buttons unbuttoned. With the suit unbuttoned
it is transformed to a great evening or casual wear.
4
button suit
High buttoning jackets are impeccably stylish and
this style of jacket is sure to bring out classic
Edwardian elegance and European figure hugging chic.
Brings a touch of high fashion to the office or
excellent when on a date.
Double
Breasted
The Double Breasted Suit is ideal for formal and
dressy occasions. Come to your wedding ceremony
looking authoritative and imposing. Consider the
accessories such as cufflink and tie clips that
go the attire, because some double-breasted suit
come with metal buttons.
Colours
and Patterns
Fabrics
can be solid, pinstripe, windowpane or some cases,
subtle plaid. The best colors are shades of blue,
gray, beige, browns, blacks. Greens are not recommended.
Pinstripes
They are a popular pattern for suits as they stretch
and lengthen the appearance of the torso. They add
an element of fashion and elegance to the overall
form of the wearer.
Windowpane
This is another popular pattern for suits. They
pattern shows opulence while adding extra style
to your attire.
Plain
Solid
This is the default standard. It is guaranteed to
go with any shirt or suit style.
Buying
versus sewing
Customization
is especially attractive to those with distinguishing
body types. Portly men can have suits made to make
them look thinner. Tall men won't have any problems
with short sleeves or pants that don't fit All these
little perks definitely override buying a popular
brand name off the rack. The funny thing however,
is that most guys who shop for that quality suit
will usually rush to high-end boutiques and purchase
the suit for its brand name rather than its quality.
Don’t be one of those guys.
Fabrics
In
this climate, wool is usually too warm, but generally,
the higher the wool content, the richer looking
the suit. Textured polyester is all right if it
looks like wool. Polyester also has the advantage
of not wrinkling too badly when worn in hot weather.
Some cotton or linen suits are fair but they wrinkle
very badly after only hours of wear. It is best
to avoid nylon, rayon, mohair, silk, denim and corduroy.
Fitting
The
suit looking great on you is as essential as buying
the right suit. Never be afraid to ask that something
be altered. You are paying your good money, and
the store owes you a proper fit. If possible, ask
for the person who will do the alterations to do
the fitting. You should wear a shirt, shoes and
belt to the fitting. Also take with you, whatever
you would normally carry in your pockets and transfer
them to the new suit that is being fitted. Tell
the tailor to fit the suit with your pockets full
since billfolds, cigarettes, etc., can cause bulges
that should be covered in fittings.
The
pants should be fitted first, starting at the waist.
The waist should be worn just above the navel and
horizontal to the ground. The waist should be tight
enough to prevent bulges under the belt but loose
enough so that you can comfortably slip the flat
of your hand in and out. The seat of the pants should
not bag but must allow enough room so that the front
pockets do not pull and sitting is comfortable.
If the seat is too large, ask the fitter to pin
it rather than just chalking it, because it will
affect the length.
The
same guidelines apply to fitting the crotch. The
legs of the pants can be left either plain or cuffed.
The vest should be fitted so that there is no pulling
or sagging when sitting or standing. (It is important
to sit down as well as to stand during the fittings
to be sure there are no problems when sitting.)
The vest should fit smoothly but not bind during
normal movement. It should not balloon when sitting.
It should be long enough to overlap the front of
the pants so that the shirt does not show between
them.
The
coat should be fitted from the top down, just as
the pants were. The back of the jacket across the
shoulders should be absolutely flat. This is a problem
to alter, but if it is not flat, have it fixed.
If the tailor claims that it cannot be fixed, do
not buy the suit. (Again, you should carry everything
in your pants and coat pockets that you normally
carry. The fitter may ask you to remove them, but
do not. The fitting must eliminate any bulges that
these items may create.) The chest should be smooth
when standing and sitting with the coat buttoned.
There should be no wrinkles, bulges, gaping, pulling
or sagging. The common test for the proper length
of the jacket is to let your arms hang straight,
palms in, and curl your fingers. If the bottom just
fits into the curl, it is right. If it does not,
do not buy the suit, since this cannot be corrected.
The coat sleeves should fall about five inches from
the top of the thumb.
Remember
to have the fitter save you a sample of the material
from the cuffs of the pants. With this you can match
and coordinate shirts and ties. When you go to pick
up the suit, try it on again to be absolutely sure
that it fits correctly. If there are any problems
have them corrected. After all, you are paying a
lot of money for your most important piece of clothing,
and any store should make it fit correctly.
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