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You are here: Style > Grooms Suits > Choosing a suit styles, fabrics and colours
Choosing a suit styles, fabrics and colours

This article explains the different suit styles, and other issue to consider when choosing and buying a suit.

Style

2 Button suit
This suit is no more in vogue. It is a versatile piece because it looks good on most body types. Due to its low button position that comes with the cut, the suit tends to lengthen the body. Be sure of the shirt you use with it, cause more of the shirt is exposed.

3 Button Suit
The three button jackets are the safest bet for anyone not sure of what style to choose. It is also regarded as today’s most conservative business wear. Style-setters tend to leave at least one of the buttons unbuttoned. With the suit unbuttoned it is transformed to a great evening or casual wear.

4 button suit
High buttoning jackets are impeccably stylish and this style of jacket is sure to bring out classic Edwardian elegance and European figure hugging chic. Brings a touch of high fashion to the office or excellent when on a date.

Double Breasted
The Double Breasted Suit is ideal for formal and dressy occasions. Come to your wedding ceremony looking authoritative and imposing. Consider the accessories such as cufflink and tie clips that go the attire, because some double-breasted suit come with metal buttons.

Colours and Patterns

Fabrics can be solid, pinstripe, windowpane or some cases, subtle plaid. The best colors are shades of blue, gray, beige, browns, blacks. Greens are not recommended.

Pinstripes
They are a popular pattern for suits as they stretch and lengthen the appearance of the torso. They add an element of fashion and elegance to the overall form of the wearer.

Windowpane
This is another popular pattern for suits. They pattern shows opulence while adding extra style to your attire.

Plain Solid
This is the default standard. It is guaranteed to go with any shirt or suit style.

Buying versus sewing

Customization is especially attractive to those with distinguishing body types. Portly men can have suits made to make them look thinner. Tall men won't have any problems with short sleeves or pants that don't fit All these little perks definitely override buying a popular brand name off the rack. The funny thing however, is that most guys who shop for that quality suit will usually rush to high-end boutiques and purchase the suit for its brand name rather than its quality. Don’t be one of those guys.

Fabrics

In this climate, wool is usually too warm, but generally, the higher the wool content, the richer looking the suit. Textured polyester is all right if it looks like wool. Polyester also has the advantage of not wrinkling too badly when worn in hot weather. Some cotton or linen suits are fair but they wrinkle very badly after only hours of wear. It is best to avoid nylon, rayon, mohair, silk, denim and corduroy.

Fitting

The suit looking great on you is as essential as buying the right suit. Never be afraid to ask that something be altered. You are paying your good money, and the store owes you a proper fit. If possible, ask for the person who will do the alterations to do the fitting. You should wear a shirt, shoes and belt to the fitting. Also take with you, whatever you would normally carry in your pockets and transfer them to the new suit that is being fitted. Tell the tailor to fit the suit with your pockets full since billfolds, cigarettes, etc., can cause bulges that should be covered in fittings.

The pants should be fitted first, starting at the waist. The waist should be worn just above the navel and horizontal to the ground. The waist should be tight enough to prevent bulges under the belt but loose enough so that you can comfortably slip the flat of your hand in and out. The seat of the pants should not bag but must allow enough room so that the front pockets do not pull and sitting is comfortable. If the seat is too large, ask the fitter to pin it rather than just chalking it, because it will affect the length.

The same guidelines apply to fitting the crotch. The legs of the pants can be left either plain or cuffed.
The vest should be fitted so that there is no pulling or sagging when sitting or standing. (It is important to sit down as well as to stand during the fittings to be sure there are no problems when sitting.) The vest should fit smoothly but not bind during normal movement. It should not balloon when sitting. It should be long enough to overlap the front of the pants so that the shirt does not show between them.

The coat should be fitted from the top down, just as the pants were. The back of the jacket across the shoulders should be absolutely flat. This is a problem to alter, but if it is not flat, have it fixed. If the tailor claims that it cannot be fixed, do not buy the suit. (Again, you should carry everything in your pants and coat pockets that you normally carry. The fitter may ask you to remove them, but do not. The fitting must eliminate any bulges that these items may create.) The chest should be smooth when standing and sitting with the coat buttoned. There should be no wrinkles, bulges, gaping, pulling or sagging. The common test for the proper length of the jacket is to let your arms hang straight, palms in, and curl your fingers. If the bottom just fits into the curl, it is right. If it does not, do not buy the suit, since this cannot be corrected. The coat sleeves should fall about five inches from the top of the thumb.

Remember to have the fitter save you a sample of the material from the cuffs of the pants. With this you can match and coordinate shirts and ties. When you go to pick up the suit, try it on again to be absolutely sure that it fits correctly. If there are any problems have them corrected. After all, you are paying a lot of money for your most important piece of clothing, and any store should make it fit correctly.


 

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